Arthur Ave.: The Bronx's Land of Wonders

Who likes eating?  I do! I do!

Hey kids!  Today, I want to share with you a little slice of my everyday life in New York City.  Now, I know that "New York City" usually evokes the hustle and bustle of Midtown Manhattan:  images of bumper-to-bumper traffic, the lights of Times Square, Central Park, and Lincoln Center likely come to mind.  But forget about that for a minute.  As experienced NYC travelers know, there's so much more to see and do in the Big Apple, especially outside of Tourist Central (which living in NYC makes you hate very quickly), and especially outside of Manhattan.  Cross the bridges, folks!

Across one of those bridges, you'll find a wonderful little Land of Wonders, the Little Italy of the Bronx:  Arthur Ave., a place that the Italian immigrants and their ethnically Italian children and grandchildren will tell you is "the real Little Italy" of NYC.  But as we'll see, there's even more to Arthur Ave. than the Italian fare it has to offer.

So, let's work our way down the street and see what we find!

First off, diversity is really the key to Arthur Ave.  The first couple of blocks off Fordham Rd., prior to 187th St., are predominantly Albanian.  Here, you'll find Tony and Tina's Pizzeria, which offers decent pizza but much better Albanian fare.  Try the Pumpkin Burek.  Across the street stand Simon's Deli, which offers deliciously decadent giant burgers, sandwiches, and a giant salad bar, and Michael Angelo's, an Albanian-run Italian spot with prices cheaper than those down the street, good wine and beer availability, and good service.  The food isn't quite as Italian - and might not be as good - as what you'll find a few blocks down, but it's still good.  

A Sandwich and Bocconcini from Tino's Deli

Near 187th, you'll find Tino's Delicatessen, one of the two great sandwich shops in the area.  Tino's offers hot and cold sandwiches, as well as traditional, homemade southern Italian fare freshly prepared and served deli-style.  Try the #7 Gianluca panini, the Inferno for something spicy, or any of the Italian treats.  The pies and desserts are also fantastic.

Once you hit 187th, you have an option: go left, right, or continue on.  In the area immediately surrounding the intersection, you've got Full Moon Pizzeria, which offers great pizza (especially the Regular and Buffalo Chicken) but runs a bit high on prices, and Palombo, a pastry shop that you should avoid like the plague.  Yes, it has the corner "Starbucks" spot.  Yes, it looks nice.  But the service is terrible and the pastries are often served tasting like a freezer.  If you're into that kind of thing, fine.  Otherwise...

...just a few steps away in either direction are DeLillo and Gino's!  DeLillo offers a beautiful interior with ample seating, great service, great pastries, and the best coffee and espresso in the area.  I'm in the camp that says Gino's is better - the best, in fact - in terms of its pastries, but Gino's doesn't have seating, so it really depends on what you're looking for!  Gino's cannoli are among the best in NYC; so are their cookies.  DeLillo offers great babas, lobster claws, and like pastries.  You can't go wrong at either place.

Here, you'll also find Giantina, a solid Italian restaurant more in the "red sauce joint" vein, Ann & Tony's, another Italian spot that is just okay, and Tra di Noi, a really great and often-overlooked spot; it's worth checking out, especially for the fish and seafood selections!  Also in this area is Casa della Mozzarella, a specialty cheese shop with the best homemade mozzarella and marinated bocconcini I've ever tasted.  Go here.  Get lots of things to take home (they also offer olives, salads, and other great cheeses!), and relive the Arthur Ave. experience for few days.  A little further east on 187th is Borgatti's Ravioli, which offers unbeatable homemade ravioli and pasta and good prices.  Around Christmastime, you'll find lines out the door and down the sidewalk at both Casa and Borgatti's.  It's that good, kids!

Past 187th, you hit the cream of the cannoli:  the heart of Arthur Ave.  Gerbasi offers excellent food, upscale decor, and great service.  It's expensive, but it's worth a visit.  Garden seating adds a nice touch in the warmer months!

Next, you'll find what I think are the two best spots on the street (aside from Roberto's, the best of the best, which waits around the corner of Crescent Ave., where Arthur ends):  Zero Otto Nove and Enzo's.  Zero is a boutique Italian spot opened by Roberto Paciullo, the founder of Roberto's and brother of Tino's co-owner Giancarlo Paciullo (who runs the restaurant with his chef wife, Rosa).  

Like Roberto's, Zero offers tremendous food, great service, and a wide selection of fare.  But the prices at Zero are more reasonable, and the place is stocked with a giant brick coal pizza oven, which produces some amazing pizzas.  My favorite dishes here are the Insalata Caprino e Pera, Grigliata di Pesce (grilled mixed seafood), the pizza Diavola and pizza Patate, Salsiccia, e Provola, and Osso Bucco.  But really, you can't go wrong!

For absolutely delicious traditional pastas and dishes, great service, reasonable prices, big portions, and a great wine list, check out Enzo's.  From Penne alla Vodka to Chicken Marsala and Veal Parmigiana, you can't go wrong with what Enzo's has to offer.  Often, they'll also have great specials.  Once, I had a super delicious squid ink pasta with a spicy red cream sauce and lobster.  So. Good.  In some ways, I'd rank Enzo's over Zero on the basis of the quality and freshness of everything they offer.  But the ambience and pizza option at Zero make it great, too.

Emilia's, which is just next door, is also great.

Three last things, and I'll make them quick:

1) Like I said, Roberto's is, in my opinion, the best all-around restaurant just off Arthur Ave. The food is incomparable, the service perfect, and the prices reasonable.  Go there, and enjoy.  It's a great spot for an anniversary or special occasion

2) For what may be the best Mexican food you'll ever eat (yes, I'm sticking to that!), go to Estrellita Poblana III.  It's not Italian.  But it's amazing.  Everything on the menu is worth trying; I've tried most of it!  This place in itself is worth the trip down.  Must eats:  The complimentary Chips and Salsa, Guacamole de la Casa, the Carnitas in any dish (my highest recommendation goes to the Chalupas with Green Sauce), Tacos, Enchiladas Suizas, Bistec a la Mexicana, Fajitas, and Tortilla Soup.  Just to name a few things.

3) The Arthur Avenue Market is home to its own pastry shop, meat shop, imported goods store, and more!  Inside, you'll also find the famous Mike's Deli, home of the best heros in the Bronx (though some swear by Tino's), and the brand new Bronx Beer Hall, a craft beer lover's paradise that serves awesome food, too!  Check it out, and let us know what you think!

To get to Arthur Ave.:  

Take the D Train or 4 Train to Fordham Rd.  Walk east about .75 miles on Fordham Rd. (or take a gypsy cab - they're safe and will negotiate rates - for around $10).  The area is generally safe for visitors, but be mindful that crime does happen, so be smart, and don't stay out too, too late.  There's also lots of parking available, so you can definitely drive down and park for the night. Many streets in the area are completely free, and some are metered, but it's cheap and convenient.  So, if you have a car, drive!